Welcome to the Club

You will be informed about photo trips, tutorials, activities, service projects, and events. Here you can find links to photographer websites and, if desired, members can recieve a link to create more activity for their websites too. This site is to help photographers network and to discuss ideas, problems, and solutions between one another. Please keep all these thoughts in "The Conversation Cafe' ", this will keep the blog organized and easy to find. We also provide links to companies which give student discounts on cameras, camera equipment and accessories, lighting equipment, etc. Once again "Welcome to the Club!" To become a member and recieve updates, send an email to uvscphotoclub@yahoo.com

Sunday, February 4, 2007

Using Artificial Lighting in SMALL Spaces

For the last three months or so I have been experimenting with continuous lighting setups. Previously I did everything with off-camera flash and ambient, so it's really been enlightening to work with a very different style. What I mean by continuous lighting is non-strobe light sources such as desk laps, tungsten, fluorescent, and halogen bulbs. What I think is so fun about this type of work is that you can find interesting lighting everywhere! Just look around your house. I'm using two fluorescent desklamps that I found at secondhand stores (go savers!), a halogen, a fluorescent, and a few tungsten work lamps from the hardware store. With this tutorial, I want to show that you can get really cool lighting setups from just what you have around the house, and make them work in cramped quarters!

After a shoot last weekend, I laid everything I used out on the floor with this article in mind. Here are the lights I used:



There you see four lights, a few with pieces of cardboard ripped and duct taped to make some quick, crude, McGuiver barndoors. In the center you can see that there are actually three fluorescent bulbs that are held together, so there's actually five fluorescents.

THE LIGHTS

When you find a light, turn it on and really try to see the color it is giving off. I actually replaced the existing fluerescents with two $7 'grow-bulbs' from Lowes. These give off a very white full spectrum light. The triple fluorescent has a slight yellowish cast. We think that most fluorescents are green, but there has been an industry change which has really started transitioning towards yellow, people like yellow lights better. The one other light in the picture, the 500 watt halogen, puts out extremely bright yellow-orange light.

The reason why these lights are so nice in small spaces is because they give out constant light. When you are working very close with strobes, it is hard to test and visualize how the lighting will work. With continuous lighting, you know exactly where the shadows are falling. The advantages of this are indispensible when leaning backwards, on your tiptoes, neck craneing, one hand balancing and the other trying to hold the weight of the camera, and telling the subject where to be. Try it and you'll love it.

HACKING THE COLOR BALANCE

Now that you understand what color of light you are putting out, you can use that to your own creative advantage. The white balance function on your camera can be set to register pretty much any color as white, with colors to the sides registering as more green, blue, or red. What I did was set my white balance in between white and yellow, which makes the white light appear slightly bluish and the yellow light not as saturated. Where the two lights meet they should give a more true white. Pushing towards the blue will also reduce some of the color intensity of the halogen, which is a color that can become dominant easily. This means that your compositions will already have some color contrast abstract ideas going on just in the way the lights blend together in different areas of the frame.

OTHER EQUIPMENT



The rest of my equipment I used were tripods, tape and bungees to hold the lights to the tripods, and cords - to get elecericity to the lights. I actually rigged a $90 dollar background stand to hold a light as a kind of boom arm. I basically used one of the bars that would normally connect with a middle piece and connect with the other tripod body as a device to hang the lights from. I also have one real boom arm, so one stand for each fluorescent (the halogen would sit on the floor). I attached them to the stands with ball bungees (which, if you don't have any, you NEED to look into).

THE SMALL SPACE



The space to shoot was incredibly small. We are talking about a studio apartment that was filled to the brim with trash. (No offense to the inhabitants, I love ya!) The first hour and a half was spent just clearing a space to shoot in. You see the final result above. We had a space about 6 feet wide and 6 feet deep with a white wall behind. Wow. I hope that you feel cramped! How, oh how, to get a photo in there?

I truly believe that creativity thrives off of being boxed in. You need to work within limits, paramaters that you understand, to see how you can break out. Small areas really force you to think. My friend Daniel was there taking some pictures of the shoot.

Oh, one more thing... please don't think this is biased towards just taking pictures of girls. These techniques can be used for ALL subjects. I just happen to have been doing a shoot with.. you know.. scantily clad females. Try to ignore that and just see the LIGHTING!



Other than noticing that Daniel's camera's white balance was set to something that really brought out the green, you can see that the flourescents are all on tripods, and the 500 watt halogen is on the floor throwing a nice warm light towards the bottom of the frame. (You can also simply turn it off if it seems excessive.) If you are interested, here are some of the final images from this location (images link to deviantart fulls):




So, now that you have the lighting, you can work on bringing your ideas into it. Bring it all together! You can also move it into another location, although that does require some work in the movement of the lights. We also did another shoot where we moved into the bathroom. What is beautiful though, is once you get the lights set up wherever, you can really move them wherever you want.



In that shoot, we eventually filled the toilet with spagetti and did some reverse bulimia themes. Here are some of the results:



I hope this gives you ideas! I am always curious about other people's creative processes. Please, try to map em out and post 'em up.

Sunday, January 7, 2007

Enhance your Presentations with Rasterbator!

I wanted to start off with a contribution early on so that the UVSC photo blog has some content. So, I'm here to let students know about a neat program that I've been playing around recently. Before I mention its name (though I already have), I'd like to first ask a rhetorical question.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a trick up your sleeve on critique day that's sure to blow everyone out of their seat? Are you sick of nobody noticing your hard work? Do you feel that bigger is better? I sure do, I am, and I sure would. What if, instead of that flimsy 8x10 or 11x17 that you plunk up on the wall, you brought in a print of your work that was more like 3 feet by 5 feet, for about the same cost as (or cheaper than!) the puny things!? You can do just that with the Rasterbator.

What it is is a program initially designed to allow people to print low-resolution internet images to incredibly huge sizes (the record right now is 35x35 feet), all with the printer you have at home! The program achieves these huge sizes by turning pixels into circular rasters to make an image look just like a quite pretty jumble of circles when viewed closely; at the right distance or further it'll look just as sharp as it did on your monitor. So, a small crop of an eye can be made into a nice poster:

or or
What I've been doing, however, is using the Rasterbator on high-resolution images that I've shot myself. This results with posters that you can look closer at and still see detail. Additionally, instead of using paper from my printer, I've been experimenting with printing them out as 4x6 images, which are super cheap anyway. You simply simply save the pdf document that the rasterbator creates as .jpg, throw the files on a flash card, and drop 'em off at your favorite printer. Then, tape those pictures together and you can have something that will hopefully inspire awe from your professor and fellow students.

Here you can see one of the finished rasterbations that I've played around with as a little itty image. But, once you notice the chair, it don't look so itty bitty no more. And, if that doesn't do it, click on the image for the full (mini) effect.


I'm working on writing some more advanced techniques for the rasterbator program, so I hope no one's too sick of the subject yet.

P.S. They can also make great gifts. This is a picture of the model standing in front of a picture of the model: